Because of my love of hiking, I wanted to share this enjoyment with each of my four grandchildren.  So as each one turned twelve, taking them on one of the great walks was a real joy.  Spending six days alone with them was so precious. It allowed me to get to know them as individuals. Hopefully it is an experience they will never forget.  The challenge of packs on their backs. The camaraderie in the huts. The breath taking scenery. The delightful taste of dry pita bread, cheese, salami and pickle washed down with warm water from a water bottle which had been in a pack too long. Yum!!!! Yum (I don’t think so). 

Samuel was the first. We completed the Milford track A beautiful 55 kms track with majestic mountains being reflected back in the clear mirror like lakes. There were others family members with us so he had quite a lot of company however he still had to carry all his own clothes etc.  When reaching each hut, other hikers would include him in card games which was  fun for him and gave him a variety of companionship.   

Emme was the next, completing the Routeburn Track in 2015. Unfortuntely this was before I started blogging so no record of the time with my very special only grandaughter) We did have someone start with us but she only had a short space of time and was EXTREMELY fit so left us very early. On the fourth morning, Emme said” Nani, I really don’t want any more muesli, dried milk powder and hot water for my breakfast” I completely empathized with her. However, I brightly said,” we do have to have something in our stomachs so let’s eat this and then when we get to where the bus stops first you may have whatever you want.” (My memory remembering this to be a beautiful café, with savouries, cakes and other delicacies in abundance. Unfortunately this was just a mirage in my mind. We arrived at the Te Anau holiday park and feasted on chips and pies.( Something I never eat and it tasted absolutely sublime) Tom was the third, again experiencing the Routeburn Track. You will have read about him in the blog” Walking 32 kms with a Twelve year old”. This we did with a very special brother and his twelve year old daughter.

Lastly it was James’s  turn. He was only eleven and half but I was unsure how fit I would be in 2021 and would I still be able to carry a 12 kg pack on my back, which enabled us to freedom walk so 15^th December saw us clambering on a shuttle at 6,30 a.m to catch the plane from Auckland, a year earlier than had been planned for. James’s had been given an early present of a phone/camera for Christmas and was frantically snapping everything, including a selfie with the pilot of the plane and his co-pilot, while we stood in line at security.  Monday morning came, a little bit grey but with very high spirits we leapt on the bus and headed to Glenorchy for coffee and paninis…..

And then the track.!! I kept thinking I don’t remember it being as hard as this last time!!!!!! But the weather was blue and clear. A slightly cool wind kept walking very pleasant. James was amazing and often waited for me on the track.  Bird life seemed less than the last time we were there. Pita bread and cheese and pickle wasn’t the most tasty lunch so there was a move to get to the hut quickly so this could be remedied by toasting it on the gas rings provided. As it was just before Christmas there were lots of family groups. James had not experienced hut life much so really enjoyed catching up and chatting to these different groups.

Tuesday was miserable from start to finish. Woke to it raining and it didn’t stop all day. We committed the cardinal sin of only stopping to eat once as it was so cold, wet and windy it just was too horrible to stop. We both found this day challenging.  The view from Harris Saddle (1255 mtrs) over the Darran Mountains wasn’t wonderful. This was the area where we usually sat and had lunch and enjoyed the spectacular scenery but of course we didn’t stop and our excitement at seeing them wasn’t that high either. Of course not taking in any nutrition our energy levels plummeted.   Seven hours from setting out from the Routeburn Falls hut we gratefully walked in the doorway of Lake McKenzie hut. Fried pita bread was like nectar from from the gods!!!! Clothes drying on racks. Lots of excitement and chatter as we all mixed and mingled, telling of our experiences in the rain.

Wednesday taking off for the Howden hit was once again, much more pleasant. Clothes had not dried much but gradually warmed as we tramped along.  The rain had passed and the air was clean and crisp.  This day is much easier than the other two. It was also only four hours so we could stop and enjoy the scenery much more. Snow capped mountains extending as far as the eye could see. James’s camera clicking frantically. The Earland  Falls, originating from Lake Roberts, were spectacular after the rain the day before.  Thundering 174 mtrs down a cliff face. Lunch breaks are often taken here as they are just on the side of the track and the scenery memorable. I did have to scramble on my knees a little on these rocks as they were not the easiest to get over with poles and a full pack. I knew the sight would not be pretty but had thought there was no one around, until a  voice behind me said” Are you ok? Do you need some help!!? “I stood up very quickly, drew my pride around me, and lying through my teeth,  said,” thank you but no. I am fine!!! “

James and his pack passing in front of Earland Falls

Unfortunately sand-flies are in great abundance at Howden hut so we were sitting inside the having just finished out fried pita bread. James’s is not one to sit around and seeing this, a hiker called to James and in they went for a swim in Lake Howden, the lake beside the hut . A lovely end to a hot sweaty day. (As I write this, I am very aware that the Howden Hut will not be able to be used again until at least next season)

The camaraderie in the huts needs to be experienced. It is so much fun  Because he was by far the youngest in the hut, he was very much included in card games, provided with chocolate, called to take photos which he is good at. It was lovely to see him joining in these activities.

By the fourth day (I always do the four days) Thursday, setting out for the divide is always bittersweet for me. I am tired and want some nice food, a glass of wine and a shower but I also face the fact that never will I have this precious person by themselves for six days again. It is a very special time. Just the two of us together.

I always feel privileged that their parents hand me this great responsibility of sharing these special children with me for six days. The walks are challenging and not without their dangers. Watching the children being challenged and how they manage this.  Time away from home and all of their friends. Mixing and chatting with people they will never see again. A time I will never have with them again.